Travels: A Science Writer in Kyoto: February 2: Kyoto Train Station

February 02, 2005

February 2: Kyoto Train Station

I had grand plans for my last day in Kyoto--I was going to stop by Yoshi's office to say goodbye, then drop off my luggage at the train station and take a 3 hour walk around a temple-packed region of town, before catching a 4 o'clock train to the airport.

Instead, I woke up this morning to six inches of snow on the ground, and still falling. Just getting myself to the train station pretty much knocked the stuffing -- and all warmth -- out of me. I decided instead to just hang out in the train station all day. This is not as ridiculous as it sounds. The station is so huge that I've already lost myself almost irretrievably in it twice this trip. It is eleven stories tall, jam-packed with department stores, theaters, restaurants, bakeries, internet cafes, tourist bureaus, and just about everything else a girl could need. Except for my one excursion a block away to the ramen restaurant, I haven't braved the outdoors all day. I have however managed to check off a few Kyoyo todos. Besides simply doing some shopping--a decidedly un-Karen-like event, but practically a Japanese requirement--I finally managed to get a massage.

I couldn't decide whether to devote 20 minutes to my very sad feet, or to my thoroughly pained shoulders (carrying around a 13 pound laptop is a bitch). I opted for the feet as good feet massages are not as easily found at home. I pointed to my feet, nodded my head a lot as they talked to me in Japanese and I prayed I had asked for the right thing. Apparently so. I was navigated through a hot foot soak, an application of sweet-smelling lotion, and then was laid down in a long chair for a reflexology massage. It was wonderful.

When the masseur was done he said: "Shoulders tired?" I thought at first he was trying to upsell me to a second massage, but no. He pointed out the places on my feet that were tight so he knew how my shoulders felt. My g-d, it's better than tarot cards! He told me to drink "many water" and to take a hot shower. The shower, unfortunately, I have yet to find in this train station. . .

Posted by karenceliafox at February 2, 2005 06:12 PM

Comments

This sounds quite fascinating. What I love about the Japanese treatment of train stations is how rail travel -- so essential to the transit of millions -- has been so fully integrated into the life of the population that they can and do function as a destination all their own.

Compare this to America's treatment of the same: they're usually in the worst areas of any given city, and are one step up from a bus station (eww!). Shops and massages? You're lucky if you find a vending machine.

Posted by: James at February 3, 2005 12:11 AM

You're reminding me of being 19 and awestruck standing in front of a vending machine in a Geneva train station that took up a full wall and included every kind of food or traveling necessity anyone could ever need. It was my first experience that other peoples' train systems were not quite like ours. . .

Posted by: Karen at February 8, 2005 12:43 AM



My latest book! Just click on it, go to Amazon, and help me earn royalties! And you can still buy my last book, The Big Bang Theory. Powered by Movable Type 2.661			« Etiquette #4 \| Main \| Starbucks » February 02, 2005 February 2: Kyoto Train Station I had grand plans for my last day in Kyoto--I was going to stop by Yoshi's office to say goodbye, then drop off my luggage at the train station and take a 3 hour walk around a temple-packed region of town, before catching a 4 o'clock train to the airport. Instead, I woke up this morning to six inches of snow on the ground, and still falling. Just getting myself to the train station pretty much knocked the stuffing -- and all warmth -- out of me. I decided instead to just hang out in the train station all day. This is not as ridiculous as it sounds. The station is so huge that I've already lost myself almost irretrievably in it twice this trip. It is eleven stories tall, jam-packed with department stores, theaters, restaurants, bakeries, internet cafes, tourist bureaus, and just about everything else a girl could need. Except for my one excursion a block away to the ramen restaurant, I haven't braved the outdoors all day. I have however managed to check off a few Kyoyo todos. Besides simply doing some shopping--a decidedly un-Karen-like event, but practically a Japanese requirement--I finally managed to get a massage. I couldn't decide whether to devote 20 minutes to my very sad feet, or to my thoroughly pained shoulders (carrying around a 13 pound laptop is a bitch). I opted for the feet as good feet massages are not as easily found at home. I pointed to my feet, nodded my head a lot as they talked to me in Japanese and I prayed I had asked for the right thing. Apparently so. I was navigated through a hot foot soak, an application of sweet-smelling lotion, and then was laid down in a long chair for a reflexology massage. It was wonderful. When the masseur was done he said: "Shoulders tired?" I thought at first he was trying to upsell me to a second massage, but no. He pointed out the places on my feet that were tight so he knew how my shoulders felt. My g-d, it's better than tarot cards! He told me to drink "many water" and to take a hot shower. The shower, unfortunately, I have yet to find in this train station. . . Posted by karenceliafox at February 2, 2005 06:12 PM Comments This sounds quite fascinating. What I love about the Japanese treatment of train stations is how rail travel -- so essential to the transit of millions -- has been so fully integrated into the life of the population that they can and do function as a destination all their own. Compare this to America's treatment of the same: they're usually in the worst areas of any given city, and are one step up from a bus station (eww!). Shops and massages? You're lucky if you find a vending machine. Posted by: James at February 3, 2005 12:11 AM You're reminding me of being 19 and awestruck standing in front of a vending machine in a Geneva train station that took up a full wall and included every kind of food or traveling necessity anyone could ever need. It was my first experience that other peoples' train systems were not quite like ours. . . Posted by: Karen at February 8, 2005 12:43 AM A six-day business trip (with a lot of sight seeing) to Kyoto. Recent Entries Starbucks February 2: Kyoto Train Station Etiquette #4 February 2: Japanese Food Revisited February 1: Forks in the Road Small Victories #3 February 1: Sushi Etiquette #3 February 1: The Golden Pavilion Small Victories #2 Categories Daily Journal Japanese Etiquette Small Victories Search Search this site: